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Caesar salad evolved with tastes and time

During the 90 years since it was first served in Tijuana, Mexico, caesar salad has evolved and changed, which is ironic in that it was originally made with what was left in the kitchen, after a very busy July 4 weekend.

During the 90 years since it was first served in Tijuana, Mexico, caesar salad has evolved and changed, which is ironic in that it was originally made with what was left in the kitchen, after a very busy July 4 weekend.

This is very true of a lot of dishes, what I often refer to as inspiration cooking. The name originates from the Hotel Caesar, located in Tijuana.

Caesar Cardini lived in San Diego but worked in Tijuana to get around the prohibition that was in place in the U.S. during this period. Some staff who were working in the hotel at the time have also taken credit for inventing this dish, but possibly because the hotel was named after him and he was the boss, the name for the salad has been associated with him.

The idea of serving it table side was to increase the wow factor and to add some pizzazz and as a result have the customer pay a higher price for what are essentially very low-cost ingredients.

So it is not surprising that it has had ingredients added and deleted for regional tastes and the style of the establishment where it is served.

The original recipe did not call for anchovies, but the flavour came from the Worcestershire sauce that was in the recipe.

The original ingredients were Romaine lettuce, olive oil, crushed fresh garlic, ground black pepper, salt, wine vinegar, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, coddled eggs (cooked in the shell long enough to set the white two to three minutes) freshly grated Parmesan and croutons.

This was mixed tableside by the chef or more commonly the captain waiter or maitre d'.

Particularly in Western Canada, bacon bits/pieces are expected to be included in Caesar and garnished with tomato wedges and cucumber slices, garlic toast and served with lemon wedges.

It is very common now also for caesar and other salads to be served as a meal, with the addition of some protein, usually grilled chicken or seafood. Some restaurants even grill the romaine lettuce that is then used to make the salad.

As I said earlier, it has evolved and changed to suit the chef or establishment that is serving the salad. The only caveat that I have is that you need to list the ingredients that are included so customers can make informed choices and not be surprised with potential allergenic or dietary restrictions.

The standard way of preparing caesar salad now is to mix it in the kitchen and then serve to the customer. Most caesar dressings now are made like mayonnaise in that they are thickened with the eggs or alternatively egg yolks which keeps all the ingredients in suspension and ensures consistent flavours from order to order.

Caesar salad dressing

Ingredients

3 eggs

125 ml Parmesan cheese

50 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 ml fresh ground black pepper

2 ml salt

25 ml Worcestershire sauce

250 ml oil (canola and olive)

2 cloves of garlic

Method

In a food processor or blender (an immersion blender also works) put all ingredients except oil. Process to mince garlic, and then add oil slowly to make an emulsified dressing.

Store under refrigeration and use as required or needed. It can also be used as a dip for fresh vegetables.

This week's column is written by chef Tony Rechsteiner, who has been a chef for 39 years. Originally from Australia, he is a Certified Chef de Cuisine (CCC) and instructor in CNC's professional cook program.